Taupe, a neutral that is neither grey nor brown

This Tonkin shade sits exactly between the two: a greyish brown that leans towards grey in cool light and towards brown in warm light. It occupies a place held by neither black nor cognac — that of a tempered neutral, without the hardness of the former or the pronounced warmth of the latter. Achieving this shade consistently on a hide is no easy feat, which is what gives this model its place in a collection dominated by black. It pairs well with ecru, browns, khakis and light denim.

A clean-finish strip at the bottom of the jacket

A finishing strip runs along the lower edge, the area that rubs against seats, belts and bag straps. Its role is strictly technical: it protects the leather edge, which is where a jacket begins to show wear, and delays fraying along the edge. It is barely visible once the garment is worn. This is the kind of detail you only notice after two or three seasons, when the bottom of the jacket has remained neat.

A pared-back biker construction

Biker collar fastened with a snap button, straight central zip, few cut lines: nothing competes with the colour. It makes sense — on such a distinctive shade, quilting or contrasting panels would create unnecessary competition. The regular fit ends at the waist and leaves room for a shirt or lightweight sweatshirt. The supple, lightweight lambskin creates a jacket that falls properly from the very first outing, with no break-in period.

The name Mauritius

Adopted for the house's fiftieth anniversary, the name Mauritius replaced Gipsy, under which the company founded in 1972 by Jürgen Raberg had made a name for itself. The trade itself has not changed: leather garments, from short jackets to coats. The company has entered its second generation, in the hands of Katrin and Christian Raberg. Its collections are now distributed in more than fifty countries.