Men's Mauritius MMAkkinson BLACK

A Buckled Throat Latch Instead of a Fur Collar

The Akkinson solves the problem that flight jackets usually address with a thick collar in a different way: a buckled throat latch that closes the shirt collar against the wind and keeps it in place. The solution is directly borrowed from 1940s pilot jackets. It protects the neck without creating the bulk of an attached collar, making the jacket much easier to wear in the city, especially under a scarf. When undone, the latch hangs to the side and becomes a visible construction detail.

Two Large Zipped Pockets Sized for Your Hands

The front does away with the small flap pockets of the classic flight jacket in favor of two large zipped pockets, wide enough to slip your hands into. The choice is functional: the zipper stays closed while moving and the volume allows for genuine use, whereas a flap pocket is mainly suited to holding a flat object. A zipped sleeve pocket, inherited from flight suits, completes the design. Everything closes, which remains the logic of flightwear.

Black to Highlight the Construction

On black leather, the color fades into the background and the lines stand out: the boundary between the leather and the ribbed trims, the outline of the pockets, and the metal buckle on the collar. The soft, lightweight lambskin removes the rigidity that thicker hides usually give this silhouette, while the ribbed trims at the collar, cuffs and hem seal the jacket at the points where air can get in. The resulting line is compact: volume gathered around the torso, narrowed ends, and a length that stops at the waist. It calls for straight or slightly tapered trousers rather than a wide cut, which would throw the silhouette off balance.

A House Founded in 1972

Jürgen Raberg founded Raberg Ledermoden in 1972 and dedicated the company to leather clothing, a choice it has never departed from. Renamed Gipsy, then Mauritius on its fiftieth anniversary, the house has moved through several generations of leather wardrobes without changing its profession. Katrin and Christian Raberg took over its management after their father. The house works both for its own brands and for third-party labels, which explains the breadth of its catalogue.