Women's Mauritius MWInessa BLACK

Gold instead of nickel

Replacing silver-tone hardware with gold may seem insignificant; on a biker jacket, it is the most visible change there is. The cold metal of a nickel-plated zip reinforces the technical character of the construction; gold warms it up and shifts the piece towards a dressier, almost jewellery-like register. On the Inessa, the zips and snaps are treated in the same way, creating consistency throughout and avoiding the added-accessory effect that a single gold element would produce.

A leopard-print lining

The inside is lined with a leopard print, visible as soon as the jacket is worn open or the lapels are folded back. It is a deliberate choice that is not visible in the shop window but changes the look once the piece is put on — and that logically complements the gold-tone hardware, as both belong to the same style register. On a jacket whose exterior is strictly black, this lining is the only place where the piece allows itself a pattern.

An unchanged biker foundation

Asymmetrical zip offset to the side, notched lapels, zipped pockets, waist-length cut: the construction is that of the classic biker jacket, with no modifications. It is the finishes, and they alone, that shift the piece — demonstrating that changing the hardware and lining is enough to transform a garment without altering its pattern. The soft, lightweight lambskin allows the lapels to fold back naturally instead of remaining stiff. The front zipped pockets, two on the chest and two on the lower section, follow the same design as the versions with silver-tone hardware.

A family business specialising in leather

Founded in 1972 under the name Raberg Ledermoden, the company has remained in the hands of the founding family: Katrin and Christian Raberg, the children of Jürgen Raberg, now run the business. Its renaming as Mauritius, on the occasion of its fiftieth anniversary, replaced the name Gipsy under which it had become known. Leather remains its sole field, from short jackets to long pieces. The group also includes deercraft, a line dedicated to larger sizes with comfortable cuts.