Women's Mauritius MWLuena BLACK

A discreet collar stripped of its hardware

Almost all leather collars fasten with a snap tab, a direct legacy of biker jackets. The Luena removes this feature: the collar rises slightly, with a rounded shape, and ends cleanly. The change may seem minor, yet it shifts the entire garment. With no metal detail at the neck, the line remains continuous from shoulder to chin, the garment loses its reference to biker wear and moves closer to a smart cropped jacket. This is the kind of decision that only becomes apparent once the jacket is worn.

A simplicity that broadens its uses

No flap pocket, no contrast, no embroidery: the surface remains uninterrupted, and nothing indicates a particular season or style. The jacket can be worn with jeans, tailored trousers, a dress or a skirt, during the day or in the evening. This is precisely what one expects from a wardrobe staple — that it should dictate nothing and remain wearable from one year to the next without looking dated. The supple, lightweight lambskin falls perfectly from the very first outing.

A specialization never abandoned

Since its foundation in 1972 by Jürgen Raberg, the house that became Mauritius has worked with just one main material, leather, and one category, clothing. Its name change, from the historic Gipsy to the current Mauritius, marked its fifty years of existence. Katrin and Christian Raberg now run the family business. This focus on a single craft explains the breadth of the collections, which cover jackets, coats and outerwear within the same season.